We then headed back the way we came, heading to Ust Cil’ma, which was staging a huge event to celebrate it’s 460th anniversary. Ust Cil’ma is a bit of an anomaly. It was originally a Russian village in the Komi Republic, and the dress and celebration had a more Russian flavor than you would find elsewhere in Komi. The Komi language is itself quite different than Russian, being related to Finnish and Hungarian rather than the Slavic group of languages. Of course, over time Komi (which has 16 cases!) has incorporated numerous Russian expressions and spellings, so the language has evolved to something that is similar to Russian in many ways, even while remaining a separate language. Ust Cil’ma is a wealthier village than Mutni Materik, having 7000 people and even being serviced by flights from Syktyvkar (though it can’t be reached by highway or train). Its roads are better, and Luk Oil has built a refinery there. Nonetheless, it’s still a village, with few opportunities for youth, poverty, and with a sense of isolation. And, though the people were friendly, one could notice anger and frustration especially among young men, or people out of work. For many, the best future is to escape to the big cities, though none like leaving the Pechora and the beauty of the region.